Cosmetic Peptides

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What are Cosmetic Peptides?

Cosmetic peptides are short chains of amino acids that play an essential role in skin repair, regeneration, and cellular communication. These bioactive molecules are increasingly used in cosmeceutical skincare and hair loss treatments for their ability to mimic natural proteins involved in healing, collagen production, and anti-aging processes.

Unlike full-size proteins, peptides can penetrate the skin more easily and trigger targeted responses at the cellular level. Depending on their structure and function, cosmetic peptides may promote firmness, elasticity, hydration, or follicular health - making them versatile tools in advanced topical formulations.

Popular types of cosmetic peptides include signal peptides (which stimulate collagen and elastin), carrier peptides (which deliver trace elements like copper), and enzyme-inhibiting peptides (which help slow down signs of aging). Among these, copper peptides and biomimetic tetrapeptides like GHK-Cu and Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3, respectively, have emerged as standout ingredients in both anti-aging skincare and hair regrowth serums.

Copper Peptides - GHK and GHK-Cu

Copper peptides, particularly GHK-Cu (glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine copper), are widely used in advanced dermatological and cosmetic formulations for their powerful anti-aging, skin regeneration, and hair growth properties.

GHK is a naturally occurring tripeptide found in human plasma, saliva, and urine. It has a high affinity for copper ions, forming the biologically active complex GHK-Cu. The effectiveness of copper peptides lies in their ability to deliver bioavailable copper, an essential cofactor in enzymatic reactions related to cellular regeneration - without the toxicity risks associated with free copper.

First discovered by researchers in the 1970s, GHK-Cu was found to promote wound healing and tissue repair. Over time, it gained recognition for its ability to stimulate collagen synthesis (Types I and III), improve skin firmness and elasticity, reduce wrinkles and photodamage, and accelerate wound healing by modulating oxidative stress and inflammation.

The multifunctional nature of GHK-Cu is becoming increasingly recognised in the field of hair restoration, where it has been shown to stimulate hair follicle health, prolong the anagen (growth) phase, and support the repair of scalp tissue.

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3 (KGHK) - A Next-Generation Regenerative Peptide

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3, also known as KGHK, is a synthetic peptide engineered to replicate the regenerative effects of a natural protein fragment found in SPARC (Secreted Protein Acidic and Rich in Cysteine) - a structural glycoprotein involved in tissue remodeling, wound healing, and hair follicle function.

While GHK-Cu originated from human plasma and is known for copper delivery and anti-aging benefits, the KGHK motif - determined to be the minimum subunit required for biological activity - is derived from a longer section of the SPARC peptide sequence responsible for cell-matrix signaling, collagen stimulation, and angiogenesis. Chemical modification of KGHK by acetylation (hence the prefix "Acetyl") improves stability and bioavailability in topical applications.

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3 has been shown to stimulate collagen III and laminin production, enhance hair follicle size and anchoring, promote microvascular support around the hair bulb, and reduce inflammation and oxidative stress in the scalp. It rose to prominence with its inclusion in Capixyl, a well-known cosmetic active combining this peptide with red clover extract (biochanin A).

Key benefits of GHK, GHK-Cu and KGHK: